Fish on the fly

Think of this as an exercise in irony, if that works. The thing is, I’ve been rubbish recently at getting some reports and photos up on all the lovely cafés out here – too much time sitting in them, too much time working late at home, and then suddenly it’s 5am, and I wake up inclined at a rakish angle on the sofa, still in my clothes, but now with cheese in my hair. (I don’t know; maybe someone else has keys to my flat. I don’t even remember eating cheese…) So. I’ve got a couple of photos of Café Rybka here and I’m just going to put them up, tell you something very quick about the place and I’m going to do that before I eat. Because I’m really hungry, and that’ll make me do this quickly. I hope. 

Here’s where the irony comes in: because as I’m dashing this report off, the first thing I should say about Rybka is that it’s probably the most chilled out café in Prague. Maybe even Europe. It’s licenced. They do some great slivovice. The coffee’s not bad at all – pretty damn strong. Succinct little cappuccinos. Can be a little tar and froth, but you might be glad of that.

The medovnik is surprisingly good. You know, straight up kind of stuff. And occasionally they do toasties. Don’t count on it; like I said, it’s a laid back place. They might do them when you drop in, but you know… maybe no-one’s been out for supplies. But they’re just right if they’ve got them. Pretty cheap tasty little snacks. But that’s about it.

So what’s the appeal, then? Well, it’s a locals place, and if you want a wooden floor, wooden tables kind of space to spend the entire day – anything less than an afternoon would be missing the point – just smoking, drinking, reading (they are a bookstore too – Czech tho, no English stuff – like I said, it’s a locals place), hanging out and smoking some more, well this is The Place. Oh and dogs. Lots of dogs hang out here, too. But you could tell that from the picture of the front, couldn’t you? And even the dogs smoke.

Some places make their money by being high turnover. You want a coffee, you buy one quick, you get freaked out on the intense red and yellow plastic veneer and you bugger off sharpish so your seat is free for the next consumer. It’s all worked out, and you find yourself blinking in the daylight in no time. Rybka (Little Fish, by the way) offers the other approach. If you stay there long enough – guess what? – you buy something else. And then your friends arrive and they stay because you’re there, and pretty soon you’re all eating, drinking and smoking (hey, they sell smokes too). Or your friends don’t come, so you buy a book and stay anyway. I mean, where else would you be? It’s one of the places that makes me most wish I spoke better Czech. But don’t think I haven’t met some characters here anyway… 

So, in a nutshell, that’s Rybka. I’ll get some better pics soon, and I will revisit it more fully later. It’s that kind of place. But right now I’m Hank Marvin’, and I can hear the Italian sauce calling my name from the kitchen. In a voice like Gina Lollabrigida – I’m that hungry. Oh – you’ll find Rybka in Prague 2 (of course) tucked just round the corner from Globe bookstore, about halfway between the river and Narodni Trida tube station. There’s lots of tiny streets – expect to lose your way, but expect to find 3 other cafés, 2 lovely designer clothes shops, a couple of bookshops, a film school, churches, countless antique shops…

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